By Ainslie Walker
Perfumery Making workshops are now being held monthly in Sydney. Guided by two perfumers - Jocelyn Fullerton and Ainslie Walker, attendees will experience a wide selection of raw materials and make their own perfume to take home. Interested? Contact www.work-shop.com.au to book, $120 per class. Additional dates in further Sydney locations, cities and regional areas are yet to be announced. Private tutorials and small groups can be arranged by appointment. Please contact email@example.com for more information or to arrange a session.
Scent as an art form is gaining in popularity, with olfactory exhibitions popping up in major galleries worldwide. As part of Sydney Festival, Carriageworks in Redfern hosted Scents of Sydney. Artist Cat Jones explored themes of resistance, landscape, competition, extravagance and democracy. Headphones and upturned cups on tables filled with the challenging aromas, encouraged visitors to sit and listen to discussions on themes while smelling.
Competition: ‘Icons of A Lost Economy’ contained notes of stewing hops and pungent rich butter malt, almost chocolaty. This portrayed the disappearance of industrial Sydney, for example, the brewery in Chippendale, which owing to gentrification of the area has now closed.
Extravagance: ‘Celebration’ contained notes of fireworks, sweaty bodies and amyl nitrate from the dance floor, signifying Sydney’s nightlife, New Year’s Eve and Mardi Gras celebrations.
During a recent trip to Australia, Master Perfumer, Francis Kurkdjian previewed, Aqua Celestia, the house’s first release for 2017. He held a fascinating workshop on ingredient notes that make up the green-floral, unisex fragrance. Mexican lime, mint, blackcurrant, musk and mimosa are behind yet another head turning fragrance from the brand. In Mecca Cosmetica from April 2017, Australia’s exclusive stockist of Maison Francis Kurkdjian.
Commodity released a luxurious platinum collection exclusively into Sephora in January. Leather, Tonka, Orris, Vetiver and Bergamot join the existing collection of ten fragrances. Commodity catch on to trends and execute them swiftly, in this collection Commodity reveals perfumers names, where raw materials were sourced and if they are sustainable - something frequently seen in niche. Here we see the bridge between niche and mainstream narrowing and the ideas and styles from niche becoming more accessible and affordable.
Melbourne’s Peony Haute Parfumerie has discontinued Le Galion, Helmut Lang, Olfactive Studio, Etat Libre d’Orange and Tom Daxon. On stocking exclusive brands, owner Jill Timms says: “It is always a leap of faith.” She recognises the competitive nature of the industry and makes decisions based on customer’s preferences. “I have a deep respect for the above brands but they just didn’t work for Peony.” The collections will go into sale until they sell through, the majority will sadly no longer be available in Australia. New and exciting collections are yet to be revealed.
Map of the Heart, an Australian luxury niche perfume house, held a concept store in Sydney over summer. The polarising bottles designed by Pierre Dinand are anatomical hearts - veins and all! The five fragrances in the collection were conceived and packaged in France, utilising perfumer Jacques Huclier. In January we featured Goldfield and Banks, a brand conceived in Australia, featuring Australian natives, inspired by the Australian landscapes and sea. Created and produced by French perfumers in Australia, asides from the bottle, which is French glass.
Grandiflora, also use French perfumers and have their bottles filled in Grasse, as “there were just not the facilities in Australia.”
The Australian concept, executed in France, business model, seems to be common however without doubt perfume production houses in Australia are on the rise. It will be interesting to see what or who is next on the Australian Niche Fragrance Scene.
So you have this brand/product that you love like your own child and you feel you have been working 24/7 to get attention. You have invested lots of money and time in packaging, typing up posts, sharing the products with friends, meeting with retailers and distributors and you feel you are still not getting any traction. What do you do next?
The growth of social media has given rise to influencer marketing, now one of the fastest growing categories in advertising and projected to be a $5-10 billion market by 2020*. A larger percentage of the advertising dollar being invested into this component of the marketing mix naturally means greater pressure on marketers to deliver meaningful results from this medium. There is now an emphasis on conducting due diligence when planning your influencer campaigns, especially around your influencer selection, and in particular their followers.